Aug.
2005, Xene #47
Two-Wheeling Hokkaido, the Motorbiker's
Paradise
By Jackie Monk
バイク天国、北海道バイク紀行
取材・文：ジャッキー・モンク
Many Westerners view Japan as a high-tech world of
beeping gadgets, graceful fighters robed in white
pajamas, and immaculately preened drivers in state-of-the-art
vehicles. In the motorbike industry, Japanese manufacturers
dominate the world, with Honda accounting for over
50% of the global market; Suzuki, Yamaha and Kawasaki
are international household names.
When I first considered moving to Japan I had dreams
of getting a motorbike, but when offered a position
in Hokkaido I was so disappointed that I almost decided
not to come. There's no way I could have imagined
that an island where snow covers the ground for half
the year becomes a motorbiker's paradise.
In fact the three kanji used for"Hokkaido"
mean "North Sea Road".
世界のオートバイ生産では圧倒的シェアを誇る日本。５０％を占めるホンダを筆頭にスズキ、
ヤマハ、カワサキも外国人には馴染みのブランドだ。日本に引っ越すなら、絶対バイクに乗ろ
うと夢見ていた。だから、仕事が見つかった場所が北海道だと知った時は、本当にがっかりして、
来るのを辞めようと思ったくらいだ。だって、半年も雪で道路が覆われる場所がバイク天国だなんて
夢にも思わなかったから。
Bikers
may seem like a scary bunch, but they're generally
friendly and approachable, especially if you make
a knowledgeable, complimentary comment about their
machine. As with other pastimes in Japan, participants
often like to dress the part and collect all the appropriate
accessories. If you keep your eyes peeled you may
be fortunate enough to spot an ojisan (middle-aged
man) on a white motorbike masquerading as an American
policeman in mirrored sunglasses, with royal blue
trousers tucked into black leather boots. Far more
common are road racers and hairy biker types on Harley
Davidsons. Fortunately for the Japanese public, their
similarity to the Hell's Angels ends with their appearance.
遠目に見るとバイカーって怖い人たちに見えるけど、大概フレンドリーで近寄り易い。
特に乗っているバイクを褒めてあげたり、バイク通の話をするとそうだ。
注意して見ていると、ピカピカのサングラス、濃紺のパンツ、黒のブーツでアメリカの
おまわりさんみたいにキメた中年のオジサンが白いバイクに乗ってる事もあるけど、
ほとんどはハーレーを乗り回す、ひげもじゃのごついヘルスエンジェルスタイプが多い。
One group of bikers that isn't so popular is the bosozoku,
some of whom have links with the yakuza. The bosozoku
tend to be dropout youths who ride in gangs late at
night on the lookout for trouble. They have a preference
for "naked" bikes, with exhaust pipes altered
to maximize noise output and public irritation. You
usually hear them before you see them, and when they
do appear you can recognize them by their trademark
pudding-bowl helmets dangling off the back of their
heads.
日本のバイカーで嫌われているのは、よくヤクザとつるんでいる暴走族だ。
排気口を改造して音を大きくしたバイクで夜な夜な群れをなして乗り回し、
トラブルを起こしたり一般人に迷惑をかけたりする。ほとんどが学校を退学した若者達である。
Bikers in Japan do not generally have a negative image,
as is often the case in the West. Two-wheeled transport
was popular in postwar Japan, when people frequently
travelled long distances into rural areas to buy food.
At that time motorbikes were as common in Japan as
they are in many Southeast Asian countries today.
For many Japanese, bikes bring back memories, so in
car parks and at service stations it's not unusual
to be approached by elderly car drivers wishing to
strike up a conversation.
一般的には欧米と違い日本のバイカーにネガティブなイメージはない。
戦後、人々は食料調達のために遠方の田舎へと買出しに行くのにオートバイを
よく使っていた。バイクに乗っていた頃の記憶が蘇るのか、駐車場やガソリンスタンドで
よく年配のドライバーが近寄ってきて話しかけてくることがある。
Nowadays motorbikes are more of a hobby than a form
of transport, but to some it becomes a lifestyle for
the duration of the road trip. Riders are the Japanese
equivalent of backpackers roaming the world on a shoestring.
In place of the Lonely Planet travel guide is the
Hokkaido Touring Mapple, a holy book to which they
refer in their search for new places and experiences.
Many of these two-wheeled wanderers bring tents, sleeping
bags and cooking equipment. In this world, size is
all-important. It's essential to use equipment that
packs small enough to strap onto the bike whilst leaving
enough space for warm clothes and provisions. These
frugal riders camp or stay at cheap rider houses and
pass on their knowledge to fellow travelers.
さて、テント、寝袋、調理器具、着替え、食料品をバイクに縛り付け、
未知なる北海道、新たなる体験を求めていざ出発！ 同じ低予算のバイク仲間が、
行く先々で安い専用宿泊所やキャンプの節約情報を教えてくれる。
At the other end of the scale are BMW riders with
satellite navigation, stereo systems, heated handle
grips and cruise control. They can afford the luxury
of eating out for every meal and staying at lavish
hot spring hotels.
Riders in Hokkaido regularly display their affiliation
by waving or making peace signs at each other. Recently
I've been resisting the temptation to do the backwards
peace sign which is now a popular photo pose amongst
high school girls. In England it has a very different
meaning, so I don't want to fall into that habit.
During
Hokkaido's short-lived summer, bikers swarm to this
Northern island to escape the heat and humidity. Some
come over from Honshu on the ferry, whilst those whose
time is more precious may choose to send their bike
ahead and fly up to meet it. Lighter traffic, less
policed roads and fewer traffic lights all promise
more riding fun. The open roads of Hokkaido tend to
be wider and straighter than those on Honshu, so they're
ideal for cruising on an American-style bike. Sports
riders appreciate the wide curves for high-speed cornering
and off-roaders can find plenty of dirt roads, some
of which may lead to a much-needed hot spring. These
fantastic roads, combined with the abundance of convenience
stores, free hot springs and campsites, make Hokkaido
the ideal place for a low-cost trip.
Local delicacies including seafood, melon, corn and
potatoes are not necessarily expensive. Most can be
bought and eaten immediately at roadside stalls. Bikers
often receive freebies and extra-large portions. Last
summer my friend and I bought one crab each at the
shop in front of JR Nemuro Station. As we were devouring
them, the shop owner came and gave us another one
for free. They were divine, so we bought two more
to eat back at the campsite and ended up having them
for breakfast. With such delicious food available,
it's easy to overdo it. One biker I met on the road
told me how he had suffered after enjoying an all-you-can-drink
special of milk. Thankfully no one was sharing his
tent.
本土の暑さと湿気を逃れ、束の間の夏を満喫するためにバイカー達は北海道に押し寄せてくる。
信号、おまわり、交通量、揃って少なく、広々として一直線な道路はアメリカ式バイク;を
乗り回すにはうってつけだ。スポーツバイクなら大きなカーブを高速で走れるし、ダートバイクは、
舗装してない道が選び放題。思い切り楽しんだ後は温泉が待っている。理想的な道路条件に、
御馴染みのコンビニ、無料の温泉やキャンプ場とくれば、安く上げたい旅には北海道はもってこいの場所。
その土地ならではの特産品が道端の売店でお手軽に買え、その場で食べられるし、バイク乗りとわかると
よくおまけや大盛りもしてくれるから、食べ過ぎには気をつけよう。牛乳の飲み放題をして、
苦しい思いをしたバイカーの話も聞いた。（一緒のテントじゃなくてよかった。）
Many campsites in Japan don't charge, so camping is
a great option for those on a tight budget. The disadvantages
are having to pack up the tent every day and having
to lug the extra weight. At many campsites it's possible
to rent tents, bungalows and cabins, the cost and
facilities of which vary greatly. At the height of
summer you need to plan ahead and reserve.
There's another budget option peculiar to Hokkaido:
the "rider house." These no-frills accommodations
will set you back 1000 yen or less. They vary in structure
from ramshackle huts to purpose-built log cabins.
Some are attached to eateries, and if you buy a meal
there you can crash for free. I learnt this after
I'd spent half an hour hunting for a rider house on
my map that turned out to look like only a restaurant.
You're expected to bring your own bedding, but you
can sometimes rent a blanket whose cleanliness can't
be guaranteed. Girls are usually offered a separate
room away from the snoring and monkey business. Although
it may not show itself explicitly or aggressively,
a testosterone-fuelled rivalry exists between riders
keen to prove that they're the alpha male. Rather
than fighting for this coveted position, deciding
factors are the meanest bike and daily mileage.
Over the last few days I've been suffering from mood
swings, a lack of energy and a feeling that I'm about
to burst into tears. It must be PMS: Parked Motorbike
Syndrome. Time to hit the road again.
日本は無料キャンプ場が多く予算が厳しい人にはお薦めだ。
夏場は事前に計画を立て早目に予約しておこう。
貧乏旅には、他に1,000円そこらで泊まれる北海道特有の
「ライダーハウス」という格安宿泊施設もある。ボロ小屋から
特設キャビンまであるが、場所によっては付属の食堂で食事すると、
突然、しかも無料で泊めてくれる所もある。男女別の部屋だが、
ナンパしようとしてくる男が多いのを頭に入れておこう。
License Details
To motorbike in Japan, you need a Japanese motorbike
license or an international motorbike license obtained
in your home country. The international license is
valid only for the first year you're in Japan. After
one year you'll have to get a Japanese license at
the local licensing centre. Bring a translation of
your original driving license from the Japan Automobile
Federation (JAF), your passport and your gaijin card.
Your passport and driving license need to show that
you resided in the country where the license was issued
for at least three months. Without a test, you'll
be restricted to 400-cc models. If you don't have
a motorbike license you'll have to take the Japanese
test. On a car license you can ride a scooter or motorbike
up to 50 cc, but you're limited to 30 kph. As with
cars, bikes have an inspection every other year. Bikes
smaller than 251 cc are exempt. You'll still have
to buy the jidobaiseki hoken insurance and pay road
tax.
Recommended roads
Central
Kamikawa-273->Nukabira-85->Shikaoi
Straight and winding sections, bridge over Mikuni
Pass leading to twisties.
Biei -966->Shirogane-291->Kamifurano
Mainly straight mountain road.
Furano-135-452-> Yubari
Winding riverside road.
Niseko-58->Kutchan-478->Kyogoku-97->Makkari-66->Iwanai
Around Mt. Yotei onto a winding road through the mountains.
Iwanai-604-Kozawa
Winding road through the mountains.
North
Haboro - 232 -> Teshio - 106 -> Wakkanai - 238
-> Sarufutsu
Long straight coastal road past wind turbines.
Bifuka -275-> Numata
Winding road through soba fields.
Setana-229-> Shimamaki -523-> Kuromatsunai
Winding road with great sea views.
South
Setana-229-> Shimamaki -523-> Kuromatsunai
Winding road with great sea views.
Tokachi
Chokubetsu-1038->Dirt road-336-> Toyoni
High-elevation dirt road with fantastic views.
Shikaoi-274->Shihoro
Straight roads through green farmland. (Watch out
for police cars.)
East
Akkeshi-123-142-> Nemuro
Winding road with few traffic lights.
Tsubetsu-588->Kussharoko-243->Bihoro
Winding mountain roads and twisties with great views.
Teshikaga-53->Kushiro
Winding road through green hills.
お薦めコース
道央
- 上川273号線⇒糠平85号線⇒鹿追(直線道路と曲線道路、三国峠にかかる橋よりくねくねした道)
- 美瑛966号線⇒白金291号線と⇒上富良野(真っ直ぐな山道)
- 富良野135-452号線⇒夕張（川沿いの曲がりくねった道）
- ニセコ58号線⇒倶知安478号線⇒京極97号線⇒真狩66号線⇒岩内（羊蹄山近くより山中を通る曲がり道）
- 岩内604号線⇒小沢（山中の曲がり道）
道北
- 羽幌232号線⇒天塩106号線⇒稚内238号線⇒猿払（海岸沿いの長い直線道路で風車を通過）
- 美深275号線⇒沼田（そば畑を通る曲がり道）
道南
- 瀬棚229号線⇒島牧523号線⇒黒松内（曲がり道と壮大な海景色）
十勝地方
- 直別1038号線⇒未舗装道路336号線⇒豊似（高地にある未舗装道路と雄大な景色）
- 鹿追274号線⇒新幌（畑地の中の直線道路。ネズミ捕りに注意）
道東
- 厚岸123-142号線⇒根室（ほぼ信号無しの曲がり道）
- 津別588号線⇒屈斜路湖243号線⇒美幌（曲線道路、くねくねした山道と素晴らしい景色）
- 弟子屈53号線⇒釧路（緑鮮やかな丘を通る曲線道）
