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Aug. 2005, Xene #47
Two-Wheeling Hokkaido, the
Motorbiker's Paradise
By Jackie Monk |
Many Westerners view Japan as a high-tech world of
beeping gadgets, graceful fighters robed in white
pajamas, and immaculately preened drivers in state-of-the-art
vehicles. In the motorbike industry, Japanese manufacturers
dominate the world, with Honda accounting for over
50% of the global market; Suzuki, Yamaha and Kawasaki
are international household names.
When I first considered moving to Japan I had dreams
of getting a motorbike, but when offered a position
in Hokkaido I was so disappointed that I almost decided
not to come. There's no way I could have imagined
that an island where snow covers the ground for half
the year becomes a motorbiker's paradise.
In fact the three kanji used for"Hokkaido"
mean "North Sea Road".
 Bikers
may seem like a scary bunch, but they're generally
friendly and approachable, especially if you make
a knowledgeable, complimentary comment about their
machine. As with other pastimes in Japan, participants
often like to dress the part and collect all the appropriate
accessories. If you keep your eyes peeled you may
be fortunate enough to spot an ojisan (middle-aged
man) on a white motorbike masquerading as an American
policeman in mirrored sunglasses, with royal blue
trousers tucked into black leather boots. Far more
common are road racers and hairy biker types on Harley
Davidsons. Fortunately for the Japanese public, their
similarity to the Hell's Angels ends with their appearance.
One group of bikers that isn't so popular is the bosozoku,
some of whom have links with the yakuza. The bosozoku
tend to be dropout youths who ride in gangs late at
night on the lookout for trouble. They have a preference
for "naked" bikes, with exhaust pipes altered
to maximize noise output and public irritation. You
usually hear them before you see them, and when they
do appear you can recognize them by their trademark
pudding-bowl helmets dangling off the back of their
heads.
Bikers in Japan do not generally have a negative image,
as is often the case in the West. Two-wheeled transport
was popular in postwar Japan, when people frequently
travelled long distances into rural areas to buy food.
At that time motorbikes were as common in Japan as
they are in many Southeast Asian countries today.
For many Japanese, bikes bring back memories, so in
car parks and at service stations it's not unusual
to be approached by elderly car drivers wishing to
strike up a conversation.
Nowadays motorbikes are more of a hobby than a form
of transport, but to some it becomes a lifestyle for
the duration of the road trip. Riders are the Japanese
equivalent of backpackers roaming the world on a shoestring.
In place of the Lonely Planet travel guide is the
Hokkaido Touring Mapple, a holy book to which they
refer in their search for new places and experiences.
Many of these two-wheeled wanderers bring tents, sleeping
bags and cooking equipment. In this world, size is
all-important. It's essential to use equipment that
packs small enough to strap onto the bike whilst leaving
enough space for warm clothes and provisions. These
frugal riders camp or stay at cheap rider houses and
pass on their knowledge to fellow travelers.
At the other end of the scale are BMW riders with
satellite navigation, stereo systems, heated handle
grips and cruise control. They can afford the luxury
of eating out for every meal and staying at lavish
hot spring hotels.
Riders in Hokkaido regularly display their affiliation
by waving or making peace signs at each other. Recently
I've been resisting the temptation to do the backwards
peace sign which is now a popular photo pose amongst
high school girls. In England it has a very different
meaning, so I don't want to fall into that habit.
 During
Hokkaido's short-lived summer, bikers swarm to this
Northern island to escape the heat and humidity. Some
come over from Honshu on the ferry, whilst those whose
time is more precious may choose to send their bike
ahead and fly up to meet it. Lighter traffic, less
policed roads and fewer traffic lights all promise
more riding fun. The open roads of Hokkaido tend to
be wider and straighter than those on Honshu, so they're
ideal for cruising on an American-style bike. Sports
riders appreciate the wide curves for high-speed cornering
and off-roaders can find plenty of dirt roads, some
of which may lead to a much-needed hot spring. These
fantastic roads, combined with the abundance of convenience
stores, free hot springs and campsites, make Hokkaido
the ideal place for a low-cost trip.
Local delicacies including seafood, melon, corn and
potatoes are not necessarily expensive. Most can be
bought and eaten immediately at roadside stalls. Bikers
often receive freebies and extra-large portions. Last
summer my friend and I bought one crab each at the
shop in front of JR Nemuro Station. As we were devouring
them, the shop owner came and gave us another one
for free. They were divine, so we bought two more
to eat back at the campsite and ended up having them
for breakfast. With such delicious food available,
it's easy to overdo it. One biker I met on the road
told me how he had suffered after enjoying an all-you-can-drink
special of milk. Thankfully no one was sharing his
tent.
Many campsites in Japan don't charge, so camping is
a great option for those on a tight budget. The disadvantages
are having to pack up the tent every day and having
to lug the extra weight. At many campsites it's possible
to rent tents, bungalows and cabins, the cost and
facilities of which vary greatly. At the height of
summer you need to plan ahead and reserve.
There's another budget option peculiar to Hokkaido:
the "rider house." These no-frills accommodations
will set you back 1000 yen or less. They vary in structure
from ramshackle huts to purpose-built log cabins.
Some are attached to eateries, and if you buy a meal
there you can crash for free. I learnt this after
I'd spent half an hour hunting for a rider house on
my map that turned out to look like only a restaurant.
You're expected to bring your own bedding, but you
can sometimes rent a blanket whose cleanliness can't
be guaranteed. Girls are usually offered a separate
room away from the snoring and monkey business. Although
it may not show itself explicitly or aggressively,
a testosterone-fuelled rivalry exists between riders
keen to prove that they're the alpha male. Rather
than fighting for this coveted position, deciding
factors are the meanest bike and daily mileage.
Over the last few days I've been suffering from mood
swings, a lack of energy and a feeling that I'm about
to burst into tears. It must be PMS: Parked Motorbike
Syndrome. Time to hit the road again.
License Details
To motorbike in Japan, you need a Japanese motorbike
license or an international motorbike license obtained
in your home country. The international license is
valid only for the first year you're in Japan. After
one year you'll have to get a Japanese license at
the local licensing centre. Bring a translation of
your original driving license from the Japan Automobile
Federation (JAF), your passport and your gaijin card.
Your passport and driving license need to show that
you resided in the country where the license was issued
for at least three months. Without a test, you'll
be restricted to 400-cc models. If you don't have
a motorbike license you'll have to take the Japanese
test. On a car license you can ride a scooter or motorbike
up to 50 cc, but you're limited to 30 kph. As with
cars, bikes have an inspection every other year. Bikes
smaller than 251 cc are exempt. You'll still have
to buy the jidobaiseki hoken insurance and pay road
tax.
Recommended roads
Central
Kamikawa-273->Nukabira-85->Shikaoi
Straight and winding sections, bridge over Mikuni
Pass leading to twisties.
Biei -966->Shirogane-291->Kamifurano
Mainly straight mountain road.
Furano-135-452-> Yubari
Winding riverside road.
Niseko-58->Kutchan-478->Kyogoku-97->Makkari-66->Iwanai
Around Mt. Yotei onto a winding road through the mountains.
Iwanai-604-Kozawa
Winding road through the mountains.
North
Haboro - 232 -> Teshio - 106 -> Wakkanai - 238
-> Sarufutsu
Long straight coastal road past wind turbines.
Bifuka -275-> Numata
Winding road through soba fields.
Setana-229-> Shimamaki -523-> Kuromatsunai
Winding road with great sea views.
South
Setana-229-> Shimamaki -523-> Kuromatsunai
Winding road with great sea views.
Tokachi
Chokubetsu-1038->Dirt road-336-> Toyoni
High-elevation dirt road with fantastic views.
Shikaoi-274->Shihoro
Straight roads through green farmland. (Watch out
for police cars.)
East
Akkeshi-123-142-> Nemuro
Winding road with few traffic lights.
Tsubetsu-588->Kussharoko-243->Bihoro
Winding mountain roads and twisties with great views.
Teshikaga-53->Kushiro
Winding road through green hills.
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