Feb.
2003, Xene #32
Great Balls of Rice!
Onigiri and miso - the secret Japanese health foods
by Kay Ifuji and Bill Andrechek

Boiled rice and miso are so beautifully complimentary
that they form the center of the traditional everyday
Japanese meal. Where rice is low in lysine, an essential
amino acid, miso is high in it. Where miso is low
in sulfur-containing amino acids, rice is high in
them.
That's not all. You can add various extras for an
even better nutritional balance. Just make rice balls
- onigiri in Japanese - and use different fillings,
or add additional ingredients to your miso soup. This
will give you a meal in and of itself, without the
need for side dishes. (Thanks, but no fries with that.)
The combination of rice balls and miso soup makes
an easy breakfast, a great lunch or a healthy midnight
snack. Rice balls are versatile, to boot. Enjoy various
flavors according to the fillings you choose: Japanese,
Western - whatever grabs you. You'd be hard pressed
to find another meal so simple, easy, healthy and
economical.
The origin and history of rice balls

Rice
balls are said to have arisen from tonjiki, a food
served to attendants of aristocrats at banquets in
the Heian era. Rice balls were later used as field
rations for samurai during battles in the Warring
States period, and they finally became popular among
ordinary people in the Edo era. Rice balls were convenient
for laborers to eat for lunch, and they were the perfect
emergency food at times of fire, funeral or other
catastrophe. Even today they are included in disaster
rations and carried as handy bites for travels or
mountain climbing.
Some say that rice balls were originally shaped like
a human heart. Today you'll see many shapes, including
drum (cylindrical), triangle, barrel and ball. These
shapes vary by region: While triangular and drum-shaped
rice balls are popular in Hokkaido, barrel-shaped
ones are more common in the Kansai district.
How to make a basic rice ball

A
bowl of warm boiled rice is usually used. It is easier
to center the filling if you fill a bowl two-thirds
with rice, make a depression at the center, and then
place the filling before covering it with rice. Wet
your hands, sprinkle salt on your palms, empty the
lump out of the bowl into your hands, and press it
into shape.
Recommended fillings
Standard fillings include grilled salted salmon, bonito
shavings, pickled plums, and kelp boiled in sweetened
soy sauce. Of course, you can use whatever you think
goes well with rice. Enjoy exotic flavors: tuna mixed
with mayonnaise, or bonito shavings mixed with cheese.
Recommendations
 |
Salmon |
 |
Cod roe & butter |
 |
Pickled plums |
 |
Scrambled egg & wiener |
 |
Kelp boiled in sweetened soy sauce |
 |
Cheese & bonito shavings |
 |
Tuna & mayonnaise |
Laver (That's nori to all you seaweed veterans.)
Laver is the typical wrapping for rice balls. This
food is said to have originated in the Edo era. Laver
is healthy, high in protein. It is rich in vitamins,
minerals and dietary fiber. Wrapping rice balls with
laver improves the nutritional balance and flavor.
It is also makes the onigiri easier to eat, by preventing
the rice from sticking to your hand.
Miso nutrition

As
its main ingredient is soybeans, miso is rich in high-quality
vegetable proteins that are effective in building
body tissues and maintaining bodily functions, as
well as linoleic acid and vitamin E, which slow the
effects of aging in blood vessels and cells. Furthermore,
lecithin, contained in the fat of soybeans, has the
effect of removing cholesterol, which can cause high
blood pressure and other health problems. The lactic
acid, yeast and live bacteria in miso are beneficial
to the intestines and create additional nutrients.
Miso can be considered a multi-purpose superfood,
with its main benefits including the prevention of
some types of cancers and gastric ulcers, the control
of cholesterol, the prevention of aging, the acceleration
of digestion, the regulation of intestinal functions,
skin improvement, and the acceleration of the metabolism
of the brain. For this reason, the effects of miso
seem to be attracting the attention of not only of
Japanese, but also of Westerners who are interested
in a good diet and health.
Types of miso
The great number of different miso types is a legacy
of the custom where each family made its own. Homemade
miso has been replaced to a large extent by factory-made
products, manufactured by adding salt and malt to
steamed soybeans. The product can be divided roughly
into four types: kome miso, using rice malt; mugi
miso, using barley malt; mame miso, using soybean
malt; and mixed miso. The majority of commercially
available miso is kome miso. Miso comes in many different
flavors and colors, and it varies depending on the
production area. There are also products with different
textures, such as tsubu miso, with coarse soybean
and malt grains; and koshi miso, which has been smoothened
by straining.
Miso Types
 |
Akadashi (dark brown) miso
- Very tasty. Made by straining a combination
of mame and kome miso after long maturation. |
 |
Shiro (white) miso - Kome
miso with a sweet taste. Usually used to season
steamed food, as it is too rich for miso soup.
|
 |
Mugi (barley) miso - Soft,
reddish brown, with barley malt. Popular as
inaka (country-style) miso in different parts
of Japan. |
 |
Shinshu miso
- Light yellow, salty. Makes a light miso soup.
|
 |
Aka (red) miso - Shiny,
reddish brown, with a rich taste and saltiness.
Produced in Hokkaido, Tohoku and many other
parts of Japan. |
A simple miso soup recipe
The miso chef starts by making stock (dashi). For
convenience, you can start with the packaged dashi
available at supermarkets and convenience stores.
| 1. |
Bring the dashi to a boil over
medium-high heat. Add bite-sized solid ingredients
(start with those that cook slowly) and reduce
the heat to medium-low. |
| 2. |
While boiling the ingredients,
put one tablespoonful of miso per each cup of
dashi into a small bowl and dissolve it by adding
a small amount of broth. |
| 3. |
When the solid ingredients are
cooked, add the miso from Step 2, and boil,
turning up the heat slightly. |
| 4. |
When the boiling soup
starts to form light bubbles at the surface,
turn the heat off immediately and serve. If
you boil the soup for too long after adding
miso, the flavor will be ruined. It is better
to add leek or other garnishes, tofu, wakame
seaweed or boiled greens right after adding
miso to avoid overcooking. |
Recommended ingredients
As a rule of thumb, use fifty to one-hundred grams
of solid ingredients per bowl of miso soup. It is
desirable to use at least two ingredients, for reasons
of nutritional balance. If you use three or more ingredients,
the combination of different flavors will make miso
soup taste even better.
Recommended
Classic
standards:
Tofu & wakame seaweed
Aburaage (fried bean curd) & snow peas
Sliced onion & potato
Nameko mushrooms & grated Japanese white radish
Japanese white radish & aburaage
To ease a hangover:
Short-neck clams or Fresh-water clams
or use any leftover vegetables:
leek, cabbage, spinach, pumpkin, etc.
Instant miso soup - easy and convenient
Various instant miso soups are sold at supermarkets
and convenience stores. They are convenient to eat
with your packed lunch or rice balls when you go out.
They also come in handy when you don't have time to
cook miso soup at home. But try to make it yourself
before rushing off to the convenience store. Home
cooking tastes better with a little luck and practice.